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        <title>My Trek 5200 Bare Carbon Build</title>
        <description> Sometimes you get the best ideas when you have insomnia.  

Inspired by a build on Weight Weenies, I was browsing eBay last night for old lugged carbon frames and came across a complete 2004 Trek 5200 for sale in my neighborhood.  Seeing bikes in person and avoiding cross-border shipping is always good, I haven't had the greatest experiences with Canada Post lately.  I wasn't really planning on buying another bike so soon after my Felt F1X purchase, but since it was so close, I figured I might as well have a look.  Turns out the frame was the right size for me (56 cm), condition was as expected (pretty rough), so after a bit of negotiating we agreed on a price we could both be happy with.  Purely by coincidence it was the same guy that I bought my Trek 1200 road bike from last year;  I took it as a good omen.

Want to skip the build journal and see the final result?  Just click here

I love projects and this is going to be a good one.  The plan is to completely strip the bike down to bare carbon, sell off any parts that are worth selling, and build it up from scratch.  From what I've read, the carbon layup can vary greatly from bike to bike, so I'll see what's under the paint.  If it's ugly I'll shoot it black instead of clear - at least that will mean less prep work.  I'm going to use the razor blade &amp;amp; scotch brite &amp;amp; wet sanding method, I don't trust paint stripping chemicals on a carbon frame bike.  Plus I live in an apartment and stripping chemicals are very hazardous and smelly.

It's going to be a lot of work but the end result will be a one of a kind with every part selected deliberately.  From what I've researched, it shouldn't be too hard to get it near the UCI weight limit for a very reasonable amount of money.  Plus, I just really like wrenching on my bikes. 

So, here's the starting point for this build thread.  I'll post updates, photos, weights, and budget as the project progresses.

2004 Trek 5200 OCLV Bare Carbon Build

http://www.trekbikes.com/ca/en/bikes/2004/archive/trek/5200/

5200 OCLV 120 Carbon Frame, Nude Pearl/Baja Blue (Team) 56cm
Fork: Bontrager Race Lite
Wheels: Bontrager Race Lite alloy clinchers
Tires: Vittoria Rubino 23-622
Shimano Ultegra 6500 groupset:
- Shifters: ST-6510   Derailleurs:  FD-?  RD-6500   Brakes: BR-6500
- Crankset FC-6500 175mm arms, 53-39 standard, some wear on big ring
- Cassette:  9 speed 12-25t
Cane Creek S2 headset 
Seatpost Rocky Mtn Aluminum 26.8 * wrong size, should be 27.2
Saddle: Kilo TT
Handlebar: Ritchey Comp 42cm ergo
Stem: Pazzaz 80mm 6 bolt 31.8mm clamp * too short for me and very twitchy steering
+ my Velo Orange superlight touring flat pedals

Weight as bought:  8500g +- 20g  (18.74 lbs) on my cheapo eBay digital luggage scale</description>
        <link>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153,153#msg-153</link>
        <lastBuildDate>Sat, 07 Mar 2026 00:45:37 -0600</lastBuildDate>
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            <guid>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</guid>
            <title>Re: My Trek 5200 Bare Carbon Build</title>
            <link>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Thank you for your Trek build post. Very helpful. All the information I needed for my old trek purchase. ^ CLICK TO REPLY]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Gavin</dc:creator>
            <category>Cycling Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 19 Sep 2020 03:11:12 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</guid>
            <title>Re: My Trek 5200 Bare Carbon Build</title>
            <link>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Sounds like your wheel &quot;dish&quot; is off center, some bikes require an offset for various reasons, but most should be centered.<br />if you're experienced or feeling brave you can change the spoke tension to get the wheel centered in the seat stays. If you have bladed spokes you'll need a plastic spoke holder in addition to the correct sized spoke wrench.<br />Edit: forgot to say the procedure would be to slacken the spoke nuts on the side you want to pull away from, and tighten the spoke nuts on the side you want to pull towards in equal measure as you go around the wheel, a little bit at a time. Remember it's righty-tighty lefty-loosy looking *down* from the top of the rim/tire towards the hub. I'm sure there are many tutorials on Youtube.<br />Otherwise any bike shop can center the wheel easily. ^ CLICK TO REPLY]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Skye</dc:creator>
            <category>Cycling Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 09 Jun 2020 13:58:14 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</guid>
            <title>Re: My Trek 5200 Bare Carbon Build</title>
            <link>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ So I am in the same boat here!!! Glad I came back to check the post on this sweet build... Still looks awesome!!!<br />Anyway, I have a 2006 5200 and my Racelite rims have bitten the dust... Rims are cracked because of that double spoken design. Looks sweet, but apparently not the most durable design.<br />I got some Vision Team 30 wheels and put the same size continental tire on them, 25c gp 4000sii and they rub the chainstays and at the top of the wheel right by the brake like yours!<br />So frustrating... I might try some 23c tires or am I going to have to buy narrower rims? These are 622x19, my old ones were 622x16...<br />Are those numbers what's causing the problems?<br />Also, it appears my wheel is closer to the left chainstay than the right by a couple precious mm... I'll attach pics if I need... But what would cause that?<br />Help, and thanks ! ^ CLICK TO REPLY]]></description>
            <dc:creator>kyleiniowa</dc:creator>
            <category>Cycling Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 05 Jun 2020 22:28:41 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</guid>
            <title>Re: My Trek 5200 Bare Carbon Build</title>
            <link>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Is the tire clearance the same on both sides (i.e. is your wheel dished properly)? What pressure do you use?<br />I'm surprised there was that little clearance with 25mm tires, I don't think I could ever go back to 23mm ^ CLICK TO REPLY]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Skye</dc:creator>
            <category>Cycling Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 30 Jun 2019 19:30:41 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</guid>
            <title>Re: My Trek 5200 Bare Carbon Build</title>
            <link>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Its right by the breaks by the frame; the photo you have of wear is identical to the wear my frame has, though I think my bike might have a bit more. My bike mechanic noted a few weeks ago that the 25 mm Continental 4000's I had on left only about 1mm of clearance. I have always only used either 23 or 25mm, so somewhere along the line it has been bad sets of 25 mm tires that have caused the problems. I have used many (over a dozen) types of tires over the years, so I can't say which tire brands caused the problem. I replaced my 25mm Continental with 23 mm Bontrager's last night; I now have decent clearance of about 3-4 mm, so I guess I just stick with 23 mm from here on out. Its kind of funny it has taken me 13 years to figure this out. ^ CLICK TO REPLY]]></description>
            <dc:creator>stratos</dc:creator>
            <category>Cycling Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 30 Jun 2019 15:27:31 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</guid>
            <title>Re: My Trek 5200 Bare Carbon Build</title>
            <link>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br/></small><strong>stratos</strong><br/> I just stumbled upon your thread. I have been riding a 2006 Trek 5200 and have always had terrible wheel clearance front and rear with both 23 and 25 mm tires. I just changed out my wheels to Fulcrum 3's, along with Continental 4000's, and it looks worse than ever. I need to find a new set of wheels to use. I wonder which ones?</div></blockquote><br />Strange, as I posted earlier in the thread I have fit 28mm tires on wide rims and there is only about 1-2mm clearance but they definitely fit, so 25mm tires should be no problem at all. Where is it rubbing?<br />Skye ^ CLICK TO REPLY]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Skye</dc:creator>
            <category>Cycling Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 30 Jun 2019 13:25:20 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</guid>
            <title>Re: My Trek 5200 Bare Carbon Build</title>
            <link>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I just stumbled upon your thread. I have been riding a 2006 Trek 5200 and have always had terrible wheel clearance front and rear with both 23 and 25 mm tires. I just changed out my wheels to Fulcrum 3's, along with Continental 4000's, and it looks worse than ever. I need to find a new set of wheels to use. I wonder which ones? ^ CLICK TO REPLY]]></description>
            <dc:creator>stratos</dc:creator>
            <category>Cycling Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 29 Jun 2019 19:40:31 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</guid>
            <title>Re: My Trek 5200 Bare Carbon Build</title>
            <link>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi George glad you liked it. It's a TdF winning frame after all...<br />Rolling resistance doesn't have much to do with the frame though, aero effects of frame are negligible compared to aero effects of your body + rolling resistance of your tires and tubes. Wheel bearings last a long long time.<br />Get some GP4000 tires (sII are on cheap now that GP5000 are out) and latex tubes and work on your tuck and you won't be pedaling downhill!<br />Skye ^ CLICK TO REPLY]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Skye</dc:creator>
            <category>Cycling Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 02 Jan 2019 15:18:22 -0600</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</guid>
            <title>Re: My Trek 5200 Bare Carbon Build</title>
            <link>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Great documentary! I have the same bike and have fantasies of doing the same type of work but going with that flat military green I see newer bikes sporting.<br />I happened upon this looking to see if 28cc tires would fit so I could do some gravel riding as my 23’s just seem a bit too narrow. Your experience certainly told me. I appreciated that you came back and updated.<br />I like the ‘04 5200 and have ridden several Century rides here in Alabama US. I’ve never tried any newer bike as this one seems to fit me well. It does seem to roll a lot slower than others. I sometimes have to pedal going down hill to keep up with others who simply coast.<br />I do understand that you wouldn’t do it again however you may have inspired me to take the leap. ^ CLICK TO REPLY]]></description>
            <dc:creator>George</dc:creator>
            <category>Cycling Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 30 Dec 2018 20:44:39 -0600</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</guid>
            <title>Re: My Trek 5200 Bare Carbon Build</title>
            <link>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <blockquote class="bbcode"><div><small>Quote<br/></small><strong>Eric</strong><br/> Great post!</div></blockquote><br />Thanks! I have more bikes now (they do tend to accumulate) but it's still a fantastic bike to ride. ^ CLICK TO REPLY]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Skye</dc:creator>
            <category>Cycling Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 25 Sep 2018 23:46:54 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</guid>
            <title>Re: My Trek 5200 Bare Carbon Build</title>
            <link>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Great post! ^ CLICK TO REPLY]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Eric</dc:creator>
            <category>Cycling Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 25 Sep 2018 19:59:45 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</guid>
            <title>Re: My Trek 5200 Bare Carbon Build</title>
            <link>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <b>Update June 2016</b> - I haven't ridden this bike in a few weeks, I took it down to go for a ride and noticed the back tire was rubbing on the seat stay bridge. I had to deflate the tire to around 50 psi to get any clearance, that's too low for me to avoid getting pinch flats, so I guess 28mm tires aren't going to work on this bike.<br />Not sure why the tire changed shapes, perhaps it took a little while to adapt to being mounted on a wider rim? Shame, it was a nice ride. Looks like this frame can only handle 25mm tires max.<br />Glad I noticed before I went for a ride, the carbon and clearcoat seem to be fine, just a little bit scratched. ^ CLICK TO REPLY]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Skye</dc:creator>
            <category>Cycling Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 17 Jun 2016 01:11:16 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</guid>
            <title>Re: My Trek 5200 Bare Carbon Build</title>
            <link>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Good news, the Trek 5200 frame will (just barely) fit 28c tires.<br />Last month I bought a barely used set of Pacenti SL23 wheels (24.5mm external rim width) and put on the Michelin Pro4 Endurance 28c tires I've been using on the CX bike all winter, which when mounted measured exactly 28mm wide.<br />As you can see from the photos below, it's a tight fit, but I just gave it a road test and it works fine. At the rear there's about 1.5mm clearance to the drive side chainstay, and about 2.5mm clearance on the non-drive side. In the front, I'm using an Alpha Q GS-10 fork, and there's about 1mm clearance at the top of the tire and around 2mm clearance on either side.<br />If any debris stuck to the wheel and got jammed, it would be a bit of a disaster with such small clearances, probably shred the tire instantly. However, this bike is almost always used in dry weather, and a lot of the roads out of the city are that awful &quot;chip seal&quot; surface. These 28mm tires at 80/90psi front/rear are incredibly smooth and I think I'll be getting a lot of use out of them.<br />For climbing and other times when speed is paramount, I'll be using my main wheelset, the Dura-Ace 7850 SL wheels with new Vittoria Corsa G+ 25c tires and latex tubes, which I'm also incredibly happy with. <a href="https://staminist.com/read.php?1,554" target="_blank" >Read my Vittoria Corsa G+ Tire Review here</a><br /><i>Any questions, just post a reply below.</i> ^ CLICK TO REPLY]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Skye</dc:creator>
            <category>Cycling Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 08 Jun 2016 22:55:10 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</guid>
            <title>Re: My Trek 5200 Bare Carbon Build</title>
            <link>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ New goodies have arrived! Swapped out the following parts, more deals I've scored on eBay:<br />* 3T Palladio LTD seat post<br />* Fizik Aliante R3 saddle, K:ium rails<br />* True Temper Alpha Q GS-10 carbon fork<br />* Woodman Gator-SL Ti black QR Skewers<br />The new post and saddle combo is about 60g heavier than the Ritchey WCS Carbon Link post and Streem saddle combo, the monorail mounting really does save quite a bit of weight. But it's nice to have a &quot;traditional&quot; rails setup, and I think the chunkier saddle matches the chunky carbon frame a lot better.<br />Changed up the geometry a bit too, swapped out the Alero 110mm stem for a 100mm and tilted the bars down slightly - I feel a lot less stretched out on the hoods now, and can spend longer and longer in the drops (although I'm still working on my core strength for riding aero more). Tried raising the saddle a few mm but changed it back, I think I've got it set perfectly.<br />New photos coming soon, just have to cut down the new fork tube. I finally ponied up for the Park Tool SG-6 Threadless Fork Saw Guide so I can make straight clean cuts through the steerer tubes, always a bit of a nerve wracking process. ^ CLICK TO REPLY]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Skye</dc:creator>
            <category>Cycling Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 04 Nov 2015 14:18:27 -0600</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</guid>
            <title>Re: Trek 5200 Build Thread</title>
            <link>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Only took 3 months, but the bike is finally on the road - and I couldn't be happier. First impressions:<br />* Feels FAR more responsive compared to my old aluminum frame/carbon fork Trek 1200. At first the steering felt very twitchy but I quickly got used to it. Probably a result of fresh headset bearings and lower wheel weight, so less gyroscopic effect. The head tube angle is the same, and I swapped the same stem from my old bike. Accelerates and brakes quicker, rolls quicker, climbs faster, changes direction more easily. Nice.<br />* Less road noise and vibration. Didn't think there would be that much difference, but there is. It's gotta be the frame, because I'm using the same width tires at the same pressure as my old bike. The new Dura Ace 7850 SL wheels might be helping, but they're still alloy, so not that different than my old R500s.<br />* SRAM Force 10 speed is really crisp and accurate, although I haven't got the front derailleur dialed in yet. Taking some time to get used to the compact crank and the double-click to upshift. Compared to my old 9 speed triple, there's a massive difference between the chain rings and less difference between the gears on the back. Having to do a lot more front shifting. The Jagwire Pro cable kit was really nice to install and I expect it will work well for a long time. I'd never done a full cable install before.<br />* Brake levers and calipers feel good, grippy but good modulation. Using some new Shimano 105 pads with them. Haven't done any massive downhills yet to really give it a stress test. A little squeaky, but they probably just need to bed in.<br />* Enjoying the compact 3T Ergosum bars, I had semi-compact bars before. I can spend even more time in the drops and actually spend extended time in the hooks now. More aero, more faster. Figured I'd get the alloy Ergosums to try out before sniffing around for Team or LTD bars. Routed both the brake and shifter cable together around the front, and it makes a very comfortable grip for climbing on the tops. Used Bontrager gel cork bar tape that I've used on my other bikes, very comfy.<br />* Ritchey WCS Carbon Link post and Streem saddle combo working well, after I torqued the saddle bolts to the indicated 15 Nm (pretty damn tight). Was having problems with the seat slipping/tilting forward over big bumps, but the torque wrench and some grip paste has fixed that. Could save some grams by cutting the seat post, it's ridiculously long for my frame with it's classic horizontal top tube. But I can't bring myself to hacksaw such a nice post. The saddle looks a little delicate on this big, round tubed frame - might look around for something that looks a bit more substantial to balance out the looks. Nit picking.<br /><b>Final weight with everything but the bottles, pump &amp; Garmin: around 7.62 kg (16.8 lbs)</b><br />(This cheapo luggage scale I'm using to weigh the bike gives erratic results)<br />Could certainly get it under 6.8 kg with a SRAM Red upgrade, carbon bars and stem, full carbon fork, and lighter wheels but I was trying to stay within a budget. I'll keep my eye out for deals, but let's face reality, I weight 78 kg right now so what's a few hundred grams.<br />Still a few things to do, such as trimming the cables, cutting the steering tube, and I want to try a 10mm shorter stem just to compare, the stack/reach geometry on this frame is a bit different and I'm getting tight shoulders after a couple hours. A bike is never really done is it?<br />In total I probably spent around 20 hours working on the frame, and another 15 shopping for parts and building it up. Haven't added up the cost yet but I can if there's interest. Would I do it again? Probably not, although I learned so much that doing it again would definitely be easier and faster. On the other hand, I have a bike that I feel connected to because I've worked on every millimeter of the thing, and I chose every part on the bike. Every time I look at it I want to go for a long, hard ride - so I count the project as a success. ^ CLICK TO REPLY]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Skye</dc:creator>
            <category>Cycling Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 25 Jul 2015 21:36:50 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</guid>
            <title>Re: Trek 5200 Build Thread</title>
            <link>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Started the build yesterday. I need to find a longer mount bolt for the Sram Force rear brake that I got used, but other than that, everything is going on easy and it's starting to look like a bike again.<br />Today I'm going to run the Jagwire cables, looks like installation is pretty straightforward:<br /><iframe class="mod-bbcode-video" width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/aIOqabbTcCM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> ^ CLICK TO REPLY]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Skye</dc:creator>
            <category>Cycling Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 21 Jul 2015 17:07:46 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</guid>
            <title>Re: Trek 5200 Build Thread</title>
            <link>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Wiped down the frame and forks with wax &amp; grease remover (carefully avoiding the painted dropouts and cable stops) and hung it up outside. Applied two coats of SprayMax 2K clear coat aerosol and it looks really good, darkened up the carbon fiber. This clear coat spray contains isocyanates so you have to be REALLY careful not to inhale any of it. I could get a super high gloss by wet sanding with 2000 grit and then applying rubbing compound, but I kind of like the slightly matte look on the clearcoat. Besides, I want to get it assembled and ride the damn thing, this project has dragged out long enough! Still waiting on a cable kit and seat post clamp in the mail.... ^ CLICK TO REPLY]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Skye</dc:creator>
            <category>Cycling Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 09 Jul 2015 14:53:27 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</guid>
            <title>Re: Trek 5200 Build Thread</title>
            <link>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Slowly making progress. Spent about 5 hours wet sanding the carbon fibre and dropouts, and polished the alloy crown on the forks. Wet sanded the alloy crown up to 2000 grit but it was still dull, so I hit it with my Dremel and some polishing compound on a felt wheel and that gave it a really nice mirror finish. Knocked the finish off the dropouts with the Dremel and some sanding discs on an EZ mandrel.<br />Painting the drop outs and cable stops by hand now. Had some vinyl pin striping tape left over from another project so I'm laying down a few black on carbon stripes on the top tube and seat tube. Almost ready for clear coat. ^ CLICK TO REPLY]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Skye</dc:creator>
            <category>Cycling Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 02 Jul 2015 14:58:41 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</guid>
            <title>Re: Trek 5200 Build Thread</title>
            <link>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ This is taking a lot longer than expected, because I'm still waiting for wet/dry sandpaper and the clear coat aerosol to arrive in the mail and everything is coming from outside the country. Canada Post is painfully slow. However I did <a href="https://staminist.com/read.php?1,193" target="_blank" >buy some wheels</a> so at this point I think the only thing I'm missing is new cables and bar tape. ^ CLICK TO REPLY]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Skye</dc:creator>
            <category>Cycling Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 28 May 2015 19:44:32 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</guid>
            <title>Re: Trek 5200 Build Thread</title>
            <link>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Finished scraping frame and forks. Took about 8 hours over several days, pretty tedious but making progress.<br />The SRAM Force compact 10 speed groupset got here this week, so I've almost got all the parts to put it back together.<br />Starting to think about what wheels to put on this thing, see this topic for more info:<br /><a href="https://staminist.com/read.php?1,76,186#msg-186" target="_blank" >https://staminist.com/read.php?1,76,186#msg-186</a> ^ CLICK TO REPLY]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Skye</dc:creator>
            <category>Cycling Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 14 May 2015 17:20:59 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</guid>
            <title>Re: Trek 5200 Build Thread</title>
            <link>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Started scraping off the paint using the razor method today. It's slow going, but I'm watching the Giro at the same time. You can apply a lot of pressure on the scraper, when you get through the paint to the carbon it's very easy to feel the difference (the carbon is a lot harder than the paint). Then use a wet Scotch Brite pad to get rid of any paint that's left. This is going to take a few days for sure. My Park Tool PCS-10 stand is very useful for getting the frame orientation just right.<br />Note that the direction of scraping is TO THE LEFT in the picture, you are scraping AWAY from the cutting edge of the blade. ^ CLICK TO REPLY]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Skye</dc:creator>
            <category>Cycling Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 11 May 2015 17:17:56 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</guid>
            <title>Re: Trek 5200 Build Thread</title>
            <link>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Got the Octalink BB out easily after soaking it overnight in PB Blaster. Took the frame to the shop to have the threadless headset cups and fork lower race drifted off yesterday.<br />Peeled 15 grams of decals off the frame and fork today. Would have gone faster with a heat gun, but mine is in storage somewhere so I just used a hair dryer. Heated up a small section at a time with the dryer on max for 60 seconds and worked my way down the tubes. Most of the decals came off in once piece, but there were a lot to do. Wiped frame and fork down with a rag and a little lighter fluid to remove any remaining glue residue and grime. Took about 2 hours.<br />The paint is sure sparkly. I guess they were into painting bikes like bowling balls in 2004. ^ CLICK TO REPLY]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Skye</dc:creator>
            <category>Cycling Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 30 Apr 2015 20:34:15 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</guid>
            <title>Re: 2004 Trek 5200 Build Thread</title>
            <link>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Picking new handlebars, measuring the semi-compact bars I'm currently using (and like) for comparison.<br />Probably going to try the 3T Ergosum handlebars, new alloy bars are only about $80 ^ CLICK TO REPLY]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Skye</dc:creator>
            <category>Cycling Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 28 Apr 2015 14:41:44 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</guid>
            <title>Re: 2004 Trek 5200 Build Thread</title>
            <link>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Took a break from doing taxes and stripped it down to frame and forks today. Got the cranks off fine, but the Octalink/ISIS BB collar is stuck. Going to soak it in PB Blaster overnight and try again. If I have time I'll take it to the shop tomorrow to have the threadless headset cups drifted out and the lower race removed from the fork. New headset and used groupset are in the mail already.<br />They really went nuts with the decals on this thing. ^ CLICK TO REPLY]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Skye</dc:creator>
            <category>Cycling Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 28 Apr 2015 00:11:59 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</guid>
            <title>Re: 2004 Trek 5200 Build Thread</title>
            <link>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Found the spec sheet at <a href="http://www.vintage-trek.com/" target="_blank" >Vintage Trek</a> which should be useful.<br />I figured the head tube angle was probably 73 degrees but it never hurts to double check these things. Hard to measure on the bike.<br /><center class="bbcode"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/Yt8LvMi.png" class="bbcode" border="0" /></center> ^ CLICK TO REPLY]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Skye</dc:creator>
            <category>Cycling Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 26 Apr 2015 21:07:00 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</guid>
            <title>My Trek 5200 Bare Carbon Build</title>
            <link>https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153#</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Sometimes you get the best ideas when you have insomnia.<br />Inspired by a build on Weight Weenies, I was browsing eBay last night for old lugged carbon frames and came across a complete 2004 Trek 5200 for sale in my neighborhood. Seeing bikes in person and avoiding cross-border shipping is always good, I haven't had the greatest experiences with Canada Post lately. I wasn't really planning on buying another bike so soon after my Felt F1X purchase, but since it was so close, I figured I might as well have a look. Turns out the frame was the right size for me (56 cm), condition was as expected (pretty rough), so after a bit of negotiating we agreed on a price we could both be happy with. Purely by coincidence it was the same guy that I bought my Trek 1200 road bike from last year; I took it as a good omen.<br /><span style="font-size:large"><a href="https://staminist.com/read.php?1,153,244#msg-244" target="_blank" >Want to skip the build journal and see the final result? Just click here</a></span><br />I love projects and this is going to be a good one. The plan is to completely strip the bike down to bare carbon, sell off any parts that are worth selling, and build it up from scratch. From what I've read, the carbon layup can vary greatly from bike to bike, so I'll see what's under the paint. If it's ugly I'll shoot it black instead of clear - at least that will mean less prep work. I'm going to use the razor blade &amp; scotch brite &amp; wet sanding method, I don't trust paint stripping chemicals on a carbon frame bike. Plus I live in an apartment and stripping chemicals are very hazardous and smelly.<br />It's going to be a lot of work but the end result will be a one of a kind with every part selected deliberately. From what I've researched, it shouldn't be too hard to get it near the UCI weight limit for a very reasonable amount of money. Plus, I just really like wrenching on my bikes.<br />So, here's the starting point for this build thread. I'll post updates, photos, weights, and budget as the project progresses.<br /><b>2004 Trek 5200 OCLV Bare Carbon Build</b><br /><a href="http://www.trekbikes.com/ca/en/bikes/2004/archive/trek/5200/" target="_blank" >http://www.trekbikes.com/ca/en/bikes/2004/archive/trek/5200/</a><br />5200 OCLV 120 Carbon Frame, Nude Pearl/Baja Blue (Team) 56cm<br />Fork: Bontrager Race Lite<br />Wheels: Bontrager Race Lite alloy clinchers<br />Tires: Vittoria Rubino 23-622<br />Shimano Ultegra 6500 groupset:<br />- Shifters: ST-6510 Derailleurs: FD-? RD-6500 Brakes: BR-6500<br />- Crankset FC-6500 175mm arms, 53-39 standard, some wear on big ring<br />- Cassette: 9 speed 12-25t<br />Cane Creek S2 headset<br />Seatpost Rocky Mtn Aluminum 26.8 * wrong size, should be 27.2<br />Saddle: Kilo TT<br />Handlebar: Ritchey Comp 42cm ergo<br />Stem: Pazzaz 80mm 6 bolt 31.8mm clamp * too short for me and very twitchy steering<br />+ my Velo Orange superlight touring flat pedals<br />Weight as bought: 8500g +- 20g (18.74 lbs) on my cheapo eBay digital luggage scale ^ CLICK TO REPLY]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Skye</dc:creator>
            <category>Cycling Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 26 Apr 2015 20:20:31 -0500</pubDate>
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